Today we continue with our Real Advice series – hard-earned practical knowledge from real riders here at our home office. This week we hear again from Brian, a member of our content team, with some advice on how to lock up your bike. Brian lived in Chicago for about 10 years, and had more than a few run-ins with bike thieves.
In the years I lived in Chicago, I had the following bikes— listed in no particular order—stolen: a black GT Pulse track bike, a beautiful emerald green Ciocc Enemy track bike, and a chromed-out Bianchi Pista track bike. I won’t even go into how many seat posts, saddles, and wheels I’ve replaced. Some may have said I got what I deserved for riding those bikes in a big city with a notorious bike theft problem. But after the tears dried, I came to realize that I was actually being taught the very valuable (and expensive) lesson that there is a right way and many, many, many wrong ways to do everything. Eventually, I got the hang of it, and haven’t had a bike stolen since.
So let me spare you some heartache by passing on a few tips you can learn at my expense. This is mostly advice for those of you in urban/suburban areas, college campuses and anywhere else that bike theft is a real issue.
1. Nail it down: So you’ve got your lock, but do you know how to use it? Here, I’ll lay out my Program of Bike Locking Excellence for you to follow:
- Buy a strong u-lock, as well as both a thick and a thin lock cable (usually a 4-6 ft. cable is good). The basic idea is to lock anything that can be easily removed, such as the wheels, saddle and frame.
- First, route the thinner cable through the rails of your saddle by passing one end of the cable through one of the eyelets and cinching it down around the rails, leaving plenty of cable and an eyelet hanging down.
- Next, run your thicker lock cable through the rear wheel, and again pass one end of the cable through the eyelet, so the cable cinches around the wheel rim and the seat tube.
- Now, pass the thicker cable through the eyelet of the thinner cable.
- Position the u-lock shackle so as to lock the front wheel to the frame, and pass the shackle through the cable eyelet.
- Pass the u-lock shackle around the object you are locking to, replace the cross bar, and turn the key.
- When all this is done, double check that everything is actually secure.
2. If you live in NYC or San Francisco: Disregard all of the above advice and buy the biggest, beefiest chain lock you can find on Performancebike.com.
3. Make it solid: Knowing how to lock your bike is only half the battle. To make sure your bike is still there when you get back, you’ll want to find the most solid, immovable thing you can (city bike racks, street lamps, parking meters) and lock your bike to it as securely as possible. To do this right, you have to think like a thief, which means you have to evaluate every potential locking location for ways it can be defeated. To wit, when my Ciocc was stolen, it was locked to a street sign pole outside of a bar. At the end of the night, my friends and I found the actual street sign on the ground and my bike nowhere in sight. The thief had somehow gotten up the pole, unbolted the sign, and then slid my bike—lock and all—up and over. That was a long walk home…
4. There are no quick errands: This seems obvious, but too many people just lean their bike up against a wall while they “quickly run into the coffee shop”. No matter how quick the errand, no matter how visible you think your bike is, or how many people are around, lock it up. It might seem like a hassle, but it’s worth taking the extra 20 seconds to properly lock up your bike. Because it takes even less time than that for someone to just hop on it and pedal away.
5. Safety in numbers: When possible, park your bike in an area where there are lots of other bikes. This won’t necessarily deter a thief in and of itself, but it waters down the chances of a thief targeting your bike. If possible, also try to find a bike that looks more desirable than yours and lock up next to that one. It may seem callous, but remember, you don’t have to be faster than the bear—you just have to be faster than the other guy.
6. Write it down: Let’s be honest here: there is no lock on earth that’s going to stop a very determined or experienced thief. If at all possible, bring your bike inside—especially overnight. Write down your bike’s serial number (usually found on the underside of the bottom bracket shell), and keep a detailed list and photos of your bike and components (take a new photo when you upgrade any parts). Most renters and home owner’s insurance policies will cover bike theft, so it’s a good idea to have proof of what kind of components were on your bike if you need to make a claim. Most lock companies like Kryptonite and OnGuard also offer a reimbursement program to help you buy a new bike if yours was stolen while using their product; inside your lock packaging will be instructions on how to sign up for this protection.
Performance Bicycle Blog 
That locking method is too easy, cables can be cut in a matter of seconds, so everything will be gone except the frame and front wheel.
Those lock warranties are entirely useless, they make you jump through so many loops that I’ve never ever heard of anyone who ever got reimbursed and I use to live in Los Angeles where bikes were stolen quite frequently; and they won’t release how many claims they have paid out over the years; that isn’t to say that locks from those companies aren’t any good, they’re the best available but don’t count on the warranty to protect you instead get it covered under the homeowners insurance.
Here is a website that shows the best way to use a U (or D lock as some call it) lock to lock up a bike, it does require a longer shackle lock; see: http://www.missinglink.org/page/how-lock-bike
Then if you are worried about certain components like the saddle, brakes, handlebar, wheels, etc PitLock makes a variety of locking devices for this sort of thing and you can have them all keyed the same.
The Missing Link link is missing.
It was a good link when I posted it but now it’s dead. Basically the idea is to remove the front wheel and place it alongside the rear wheel, then using a U (some call it a D lock) lock you lock the seat tube and the two wheels together to a strong object like a steel pole that won’t allow someone to lift the bike up and over, or perhaps cut it instead of the lock, or be able to pull it out of the ground. I’ve been trying to find a picture of what this looks like but for some reason can’t. This locking method isn’t not a new one, I used it 40 years ago when I had a short length of thick chain and a padlock and would park my bike with the back wheel in the bike rack at college and then remove the front wheel and put it alongside the rear and lock the wheels and seat tube to the rack; in fact they use to make plastic fork dropout protector sleeves that you would slide over the dropout so the pavement wouldn’t mar your dropouts! They don’t make that anymore.
You’ll Never Catch Me!”
Several years ago, in the middle of summer, I locked my trusty single speed mountain bike with a Krypto cable. I ran in to grab a coffee and while I was paying, one of the coffee regulars yelled at me that my bike had just been ripped off. I ran out and saw the junkie furiously pedaling away. I gave chase and watched with amusement as the chain fell off the sprocket and the junkie went splat in the middle of the intersection. Several other couriers with me jumped on the guy and held him down until the police showed up (they had been called by our buddy at the coffee hut). A few war wounds on the bike, but I recovered it. Since then I have gone all out with my security system. I now use a 4 foot length of Grade 70 Transport chain with 3/8″ thick links. It takes a hydraulic cutter to snap these links and no bolt cutter will touch it. I pair this up with either an ABUS Discus lock or another lock I’ve got that is a little bigger (1/2″ thick shackle). The beauty of using a chain like this is you can wrap it around a lamp standard and secure your bike. To date, there have been many attempts to cut the chain, but it is futile to try. I once interrupted a thief in the garage and his 5 foot long bolt cutters had snapped at the pivot. A little scar on the chain, that was it. You can go to Home Depot or Acklands Grainger to buy the chain. Ask for Grade 70 Transport chain, 3/8″ thick links. Go to the lock section and ask for an ABUS or MASTER disc lock. Get the slightly larger one so both ends of the chain fit into it. I have seen many attempts to break these locks by hammers, punches, bolt cutters, etc., but no success in actually breaking them. You can buy a Kryptonite chain and lock, but who wants to spend $100+ on a lock. I spent about 35 bucks for mine…….. happy trails. Otto Vancouver, BC, Canada
Neil that was hilarious I used to own the same kind of mtn. bike, the gear shifter was dysfunctional so I removed the rear derailleur which left me with an extra length of chain. “Pedaling furiously” off the curb the chain comes lose then falling hard in the middle of the intersection, did I mention it had no brakes ? Anyway, thank you for the really helpful tips Neil.
One thing about Kryptonite’s insurance, it’s almost impossible to collect on it! Which is weird considering they’re probably the best locks on the market. They have a lot of loop holes you have to jump through, like: First and foremost you have to register the lock immediately after purchase, and send in a copy (they changed this from original to copy recently because at the time of loss they then required another original, so there must have been a lawsuit) receipt; key number of your lock; serial number of the bike; itemized copy of the bill of sale for the bike; picture of your bike; must have a copy of the police report, which in a lot of large cities the police no longer do police reports! immediately report the theft to your insurance company is you have one (if you do, Krypt will pay the deductible only, which makes only sense); contact Krypt within 7 days of theft; description of how the bike was locked and how the lock failed; picture of broken lock (out of luck if the lock was taken); picture of key (not sure why that’s needed); the lock must be broken by force (which is why they want the lock returned) if the lock was picked, or whatever the lock was locked to was cut, then you have no coverage. They use to require pictures of the crime scene during the time of day the theft occurred (not just the lock), including what it was lock to, with enough of the scene to determine how visible it was to the public in a high foot traffic area; original box with UPC code intact that the lock came in; need to get the bike reappraised every year and keep a copy of it to send in case of theft; and some other stuff I can’t recall now; it’s possible more detail of what is needed will be given when you call them vs what they now post on their website.
I would call Krypto at the time of purchase and find out what they require in full detail and make sure there is nothing else needed that’s outside what is either on their website or on their warranty information that came with the lock, and you fully understand what will happen if the city you live in doesn’t do police reports on stolen bikes, and what happens if the theft takes the lock (or the city could take the lock if they see it busted on the sidewalk as they clean); or the lock wasn’t broken by force, it was either picked or the object it was locked to was forced apart; do you need an appraisal every year. And of course keep the original box just in case they want it.
But as you can see, if you live in a city that won’t do a police report you won’t be getting any coverage from Kryto for nothing, not even sure without the police report if they’ll even replace the lock not alone pay for the deductible or the bike. And as you can tell there are a lot of loopholes that if one of those loopholes you’re trying to jump through fails then you’re out of money and a bike if you don’t have other insurance.
They also changed the registration process, it use to be at the end of the first year you had to renew the insurance by paying a fee, at the end of the 2nd year you had to buy a new lock and start all over again. Now they offer you a choice of 5 plans when you buy the lock so must chose one of the 5, at the end of the time period you select you’ll have to buy
another lock if you want to start the coverage again, so for the price it’s best to get the max 5 year coverage.
Krypto will do their best not to pay a claim, so you have to do everything you can to make sure they will pay the claim, and make sure you understand all the what if’s.
I just found this site and enjoyed reading all the responses.
I tried to find a 5′ long grade 70 transport chain on Amazon and can’t, my local home places don’t sell it either, so I have two questions: first one is if its so tough to cut I do a cut a 12′ piece to make a 5′ piece? I’m assuming I would need an angle grinder since one of the responses said that could cut through anything? or maybe a cutting torch?
The other question is how much does a 5′ section of that chain weigh?
Yeah, I would lock the rear wheel with the U-lock (or heavy chain) to the frame and either use the heavy cable to secure the front wheel, or even better, remove the front wheel and secure it together with the frame and rear wheel. The rear wheel is typically the more expensive of the wheels to replace which is why it should be better secured.
I learned some good tips here. I like the eyelet methods. Thanks. I have heard of ways thieves open U-locks so I do my cable lock separate so thief has a second (separate) step and need more tools.
Never lock to the end of an old school rack, One bolt removed from the rack and the whole bike is gone. Proper way to use a u-lock, remove front wheel, secure front wheel, frame and rear wheel together to the rack.
My question is how do you carry this stuff when you are riding? It’s gotta be heavy!
First off I don’t take my good bike when I need to go somewhere and lock it up, I take an older “beater” bike instead so I don’t have to worry about using heavy locks because in reality any lock can be defeated. Some cities like New York and Los Angeles bikes with the best locks made are stolen rather frequently. If you’re truly worried about your bicycle being stolen it’s cheaper to buy a $250 or so bike and a $17 On Guard 15mm cable with a key lock from Walmart, then if by some odd chance that gets stolen you’re only out around $267 instead of $100 lock plus a $2,500 bike or a $500 to $1000 deductible on your homeowners insurance. I use my good bike for weekend training rides and after work rides, and an older less valuable bike to commute.
Check out http://www.velosurance.com for complete theft and damage protection for you bike.
I have a Kryptonite lock on my bike as well as insurance from http://velosurance.com
All bike locks can be broken. It is just a matter of time. Nevertheless a good lock can buy you tons of time.
Reblogged this on Running Rev. Collins and commented:
This is a great article on ways to secure that bike of yours. I hope you enjoy.
Good article, If a thief wants your bike bad enough they can get it, the best protection you can get is a great insurance policy.
Great post.
Nowadays a thief can just buy battery powered angle grinder and any lock or chain in less than one minute.
That cable is not protecting your seat in any meaningful way. All bike thieves carry cable cutters that will cut through it 1 second. You’re just wasting time and effort with this strategy.
There’s a ton on good advice about how to protect your seat effectively on this site
It’s worth adding, whatever lock you choose, it’s got to be easy for you to use as well as protecting your bike.
It’s simple. Use whatever chain, cable you want. Just park it next to the $5000 carbon fiber bike the dude ahead of you left sitting against the wall at Starbucks. I guarantee he did not use a lock… that would be too much weight to carry around.
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